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These instructions are presented here for informational purposes only. Any modifications you choose to do to your gun, you do so at your own risk. Be sure to REMOVE the CO2 or other gas source from any paintball marker before you attempt disassembly. Wear eye protection when using ANY power tools. If unsure about safely modifying your gun, consult a professional airsmith. Remember, safety must ALWAYS come first!

Submitted by Brian Shields

Idea for rear-cocking Stingray

I've been thinking about this a lot, in my free time (like I have any, but that's another story)...

First, using appropriate hose, an elbow, and a machined piece of metal, I'm planning on taking out the cheap little tube (transfer tube #21) used to carry air from the donkey (#19) to the front of the internals, and putting the elbow with hose attached where it connected (not on the donkey side, the valve side). This should allow me to put the air tank anywhere I please, probably on that piece of plastic with the stingray stamped on it. The machined piece of metal is basically an elongated "U", made to hold the elbow in place, so that the hole the elbow goes in will not have to be tapped. The walls are probably too thin anyway.

After clearing out all that room in the back, where the tank used to be, I'm planning on taking out the internals, specifically the piece the spring and the cocking screw fits into (hammer #15). I want to tap the hole the spring goes into, leaving a lip for the spring to catch on. I will then pretty much destroy the spring guide (i think that's what it's called... the piece that looks like a disk with a bar coming out of it that the spring slides on [#18]) and drill a hole through the donkey and the lower receiver so that I can take a rod with a screw end, slide it through those two holes, through the spring (thereby becoming a new spring guide), and screw it into the newly tapped hole. This allows the gun to be cocked from the back, and lets the side hole where I used to cock it be filled, probably with epoxy. This should quiet the gun considerably, and will give it a look that is COMPLETELY different. Any hints, suggestions, or errors in my thinking would be greatly appreciated, and improvements will only help. I figure that the modifications I'm talking about should be fairly cheap, and will be easy for anyone with a machine shop friend.

Quake's notes -

This sounds a bit like what Trinity did to his 'Ray. But he added an external adjuster through the donkey. Check his page out for more info. Also, LAPCO has a couple of adapters you may be interested in. One is the Automag Vertical Adapter, which I'm looking into to mount the tank vertically on a 'Ray. The other is a Reducer - one side screws into the CA adapter (donkey) on the gun, the other end has 1/8" NPT-F threads. Of course, you'd need a high pressure hose and elbow to connect the two adapters.

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